Periwinkle Soup

The northwest Indians said the "ocean rolls out the dinner table twice a day," observing that with each low tide an edible bounty was uncovered, free for the picking. For the kayaker, it's even simpler than that, with periwinkles presented at eye level at every turn. They're small size will make you work for your meal, but they're tasty, fresh, free, and just begging investigation.

I'm sure you can Google up 20 better recipes, but this is an easy one I always have the stuff for on board. Given the choice, potatoes and a chowder approach is better, and linguini is very nice.

1. Collect a lot. Select the largest, about one cup/serving.
2. Check that they are alive when you get back to the kitchen. Just spread them out thin in some seawater and watch for movement. Takes only a few minutes. Chop vegetables while you wait.
3. Chop about 1/3 onion per serving. Season with cumin, pepper, curry, and ginger. I add 1/4 of the "chicken" flavor packet. Or what every you like.
4. Boil the periwinkles in the shell for 5 minutes.
   
5. Some say pick out the meat, but I find a nut cracker is faster. A water rinse (stir or shake the bowl) separates the shell bits that you missed.
   
   
6. Simmer meat, vegetables and seasonings for 20 minutes.
7. Add raman noodles for the last 3 minutes. 

Yummy, rather like mussels.  All summer I seem to bring food home from cruises, finding a good portion of what I eat.

Smith Island

Smith Island/Ewell. An alternative to Tangier Island (we like Tangier better), Smith Island offers a similar experience, but quieter and with more kayaking possibilities. The history and culture are similar, though the flavor is not quite so pronounced, or perhaps just not as deliberately marketed. There are fewer stores, restaurants, and tourist amenities in general, in spite of the active ferry service. The towns are smaller (Ewell, Tylerton, and Rhodes Point) and the ferry service more recent. There is really only one large restaurant, the Crab Claw, right behind the marina. 

(Edit: Rukes closed in 2015.)
Ruke’s General Store is a few hundred yards further into town; groceries are available and lunch is served, both are limited, yet it is a comfortable local place that visitors remember. Without any reservation, they serve the best crab cakes anywhere, 5-star restaurants included.

Ruke's, inside

Rukes, the view from the porch

            The Smith Island Visitor’s Center (open every day noon to 4:00 PM, April through October—matching the cruise boat schedule) deserves an hour during your first visit. A miniature version of the maritime museums in St. Michaels and Solomons Island, there is an informative slide show, varied exhibits and dioramas, primarily of an earlier time but some present day, and several small restored local craft. And it’s air conditioned.

             We have thoroughly enjoyed our visits, accepting that it is very quiet. Everything closes when the last ferry leaves, and the restaurants are not open for dinner. The ice-cream stand between the Visitor’s Center and the docks rents golf carts and bicycles, though there isn’t far to go and an hour or two is enough; a few antique stores and a few quiet lanes. At first visit we spent most of the afternoon exploring the nearby marsh with a two-person sea kayak borrowed from the Smith Island Marina.

               Like Tangier, the crabbing on the flats and marina pilings is fast and easy in late summer. Somehow they're sweater when you harvested them yourself.

Kayaking. Excellent, both the north (longer distances) and just south of Ewell. If you don't have a kayak, the marina generally has loaners (free), but bring your own. You could paddle for a week and not see it all. Figure on spending a night or two.

Rounding Swan Island to the east. Part of the Smith island complex, this island is next to the west entrance and rounding it makes a nice 2- to 3-hour expedition. You can paddle around the jetty, but crossing it is easy.

Northeast of Swan Island. The water is crystal clear, the result of filtration by extensive grass beds.

 

Smith Island/Rhodes Point and Tylerton. The other towns of Smith Island are not frequented by tourists and boast no tourist adaptations. That doesn’t mean you won’t be welcome; it means I haven’t been there and I’ve been told the towns are more original. I did approach Ewell by Tyler Creek 2006 and found the depth to be over 6 feet the whole way, except for a 4-foot bar just south of Tylerton. The channel east to Rhodes point is said to be more challenging, because it weaves, not because it is shallow.

Approach. From either the east or west the Thorofare Channel is straight forward. Yield 20 yards south of the markers just east of Ewell (G”15”) to avoid a sand bar that brings even locals to grief, should they be caught wool gathering.

Anchorage. Just west of Ewell and just after the main channel ziggs north there is an extension that continues. You will find 10 feet of water, good holding ground, and little traffic, although there is considerable current.

Marinas.

• Smith Island Marina, Nice docks; if you draw more than 3 feet you may consider mooring toward the outward end where you should have at least 6 feet. Because the slips are 2-per-slot, they are very wide. 8 feet draft at low tide from the west, 6 feet from the east. A nice air conditioned dock house with toilet and large shower. Free use of a 2-person sea kayak. $1.00/foot overnight + $5 for electricity.

410-425-4220. www.smithisland.us/marina.htm

Fuel. Just east of Smith Island Marina. Limited hours.

Internet information sources:
 http://www.paddlesmithisland.com/SmithMap_Production13.pdf

Tangier

rev. 7-15-2016

In calm conditions, paddling around the island is quite practical. In westerly conditions, these breakers at the western channel entrance can make for fun play.

The island town of the Bay, if you listen to the guide books. There has been so much written no benefit would come from more description here, except to say that it is unique, that it deserves a visit, and that those not involved in the tour boat trade are, perhaps, a bit tired of being “cute.” 

 The Upards. This is NOT the the swimming beach!

            There is a very nice swimming beach—we think the nicest on the Bay—at the far end of island (Toms Hook), accessible by a ¾ mile walk from the dock. The flies can be a problem if you linger, so we generally keep our time flexible and scram when they show up. The Tangier Museum—also on the main street, as most businesses are—is a worthwhile stop if history is of interest. Spankey’s Ice Cream (also serves sandwiches, about 3/8 mile on the main street on the right, open 10-8:30 PM) and the Fisherman’s Corner Restaurant (open 11AM-8 PM, 200 yards on the main street) are our favorite stops. An excellent overnight stop.

Approach. From either the east or west the approach is straight forward for the shoal draft boat. Enter by one and exit by the other, for the full view.

Anchorage.  Possible east of the docks in the harbor, but I have never seen anyone do it. Too busy, really.

Marinas.

• Parks Marina. Both slips and 3 bulkhead locations with daft over 6 feet. Showers, power, water. $25.00/night under 30 feet, $30.00/night over 30 feet, and $5.00 for power. 757-891-2581. Milton Parks.

Groceries and Ice.

• At the grocery store, a few hundred yards from the dock on the main road (path?) to town. The hours are 8AM to 5PM, and closed on Sunday.
• Cheaper ice (flake ice, $1 per bucket) at CJ Charnocks, next to the marina. Watermans’ hours, though extremely variable.

Fuel and Gas.

Just east of Parks Marina at Tangier Oil and Gas (the many above 20,000 gallon ground tanks make it obvious) . E10 and diesel. Open 7:30 AM to 4:30 PM.

751-891-2500.

Bike rentals are available (from the backyard of a house just past Crocket’s restaurant in mid-town).

Golf cart are available: 

•  Roger’s Rentals. Ask at the ferry dock lunch stand (Seafood Grill). Cheaper but a bit dilapidated. 
•  Four Brothers Crab House & Ice Cream Deck, Tele: 757-891-2999  Email: Tommy@FourBrothersCrabHouse.com). On the main street just south of the general store.

Kayaks: Everywhere is good. A small creek just west of the marina on the southern bank is short but nice. The harbor is nice. The north island has many nice guts and paddling around the outside is fun and very scenic.

• The Tangier Museum has a large collection of loaners for which they suggest a donation. A great way to expereince paddling. 

Wi-Fi. I wouldn’t normally mention this, but cell phones don’t generally work on Tangier Island.

• The Heath Center has free wi-fi with a good signal outside 24/7.

While not a wetland or quite creek, exploring the harbor area close-up is a treat. A morning tour of the sprawling harbor full of waterman's shacks can be relaxing and educational.